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Plymouth Notch has been called one of the best-preserved
presidential sites in the nation. Birthplace and boyhood
home of Calvin Coolidge, this small Vermont hill town
is virtually unchanged since August 3, 1923. It was
then that Vice President Coolidge was visiting his
old family home, and the unexpected news of Warren
Harding's death had just been received. Coolidge became
the 30th President of the United States when his father,
a notary public, swore him into office at 2:47 a.m.
in the sitting room. A single kerosene lamp lit the
scene.
The so-called "Homestead Inaugural," unique
in American history, immediately brought Plymouth
Notch to world attention. Without electricity or plumbing,
old-fashioned Plymouth fascinated most Americans of
the sophisticated "Roaring Twenties." Thousands
of visitors descended, including one memorable day
in 1924 when 4,500 cars were counted in the village,
which normally numbered twenty-nine residents.
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"Coolidge Village"
Artist: William Fisher. Oil on canvas, c. 1925
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Plymouth Notch continued to be a major attraction
through the 1930s, until gas rationing sharply curtailed
Vermont tourism during World War II. Nevertheless,
there was continued interest in the presidential site.
In 1947, the Vermont Legislature established the Historic
Sites Commission, now known as the Vermont Division
for Historic Preservation (VDHP) (1).
One of the primary charges to the Commission was that
"special attention be given to the suitable development
of President Coolidge's birthplace."
At that time, all the village buildings were privately
owned, and none were restored and open to the public.
In 1947 the State of Vermont purchased the Wilder
House (the home of Calvin's mother) and began renovations
to open it as an information center and lunchroom.
Soon afterwards, the Wilder Barn was restored and
a major agricultural collection was assembled to exhibit
in the large structure. The State also made significant
repairs to the Notch Cemetery, which improved public
accessibility at the presidential gravesite.
Impressed by the State of Vermont's efforts at Plymouth
Notch, and following the wishes of First Lady Grace
Coolidge, John Coolidge (son of the President) and
his wife Florence donated the Coolidge Homestead and
its contents to the State in 1956. Over the next several
decades, the State purchased major parcels of land
and significant buildings in Plymouth Notch, and,
in 1972, for the centennial of President Coolidge's
birth, constructed a modern Visitor Center.
With the exception of the Union Christian Church
(owned by the Calvin Coolidge Memorial Foundation),
the Vermont Division for Historic Preservation now
owns and maintains nearly the entire historic village
- some two dozen buildings and 550 acres. (2)
This complex, called the "President Calvin Coolidge
State Historic Site," encompasses most of the
Plymouth Notch Historic District, which is a National
Historic Landmark. The state historic site includes
the Coolidge Birthplace, Coolidge Homestead, Wilder
House, Wilder Barn, Aldrich House (the home of Calvin's
stepmother), Plymouth Cheese Factory, general store,
dance hall, one-room schoolhouse, three early tourist
cabins, and two prominent farmhouses with associated
outbuildings. The U.S. Postal Service rents space
in the general store building, continuing its nearly
150-year tenure in that structure. The site has a
restaurant (serving breakfast and lunch) and three
museum stores. Two walking trails, developed in 1994,
allow visitors to explore the surrounding fields and
forest.
Site interpretation focuses on Calvin Coolidge's
boyhood years, as well as the pivotal years of 1923
and 1924. (1923 -- when Coolidge was sworn in as President
in the family homestead; 1924 -- when he established
his Summer White House office in the village dance
hall.) A typical tour begins at the Visitor Center
Museum where permanent and temporary exhibits examine
the presidency and related topics. The historic tour
includes 11 buildings, four of which have been restored
and opened to the public since 1991. Museum guides
are stationed in the principal buildings to assist
visitors as they walk through the village -- a minimum
of two hours is suggested. The site is open seasonally
(late May - mid October), but the Vermont Division
for Historic Preservation maintains a year-round regional
office and exhibits in the Aldrich House.
Working closely with town organizations and the Calvin
Coolidge Memorial Foundation, the VDHP has developed
several special events including Plymouth Old Home
Day (early August,) Plymouth Cheese & Harvest
Festival (mid September), and Coolidge Christmas Open
House (mid-December). The July 4th Coolidge Birthday
Celebration is especially popular.
(3) Other programs include on-site school activities,
lecture series, and historic farming demonstrations
and wagon rides.
The President Calvin Coolidge State Historic Site
collects, preserves, manages, and exhibits materials
associated with Calvin Coolidge, his family, and with
the region of Plymouth Notch, Vermont from the late
18th to early 20th century. The VDHP owns and curates
the principal collection of three-dimensional artifacts
associated with President and Mrs. Coolidge, and many
of these objects are on permanent display at the historic
site. This collection numbers approximately 10,000
objects, and is continually expanding by donation
(particularly, from the Coolidge family), purchase,
and deaccession from other institutions. Remarkably,
several of the state-owned buildings have their original
early 20th century furnishings (e.g., the Coolidge
Homestead, Birthplace, and 1924 Summer White House
office).
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'Tumbling Blocks'
This elaborate quilt top, made by ten-year-old
Calvin Coolidge in 1882, is preserved in the
Coolidge family homestead.
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Artifacts include the President's medal collection,
presidential gifts of state, Coolidge family portraits,
decorative arts, household furnishings, Grace Coolidge's
formal gowns and other personal accessories, and one
of the country's finest collections of late 19th/early
20th century agricultural equipment. The VDHP works
closely with the other "Coolidge collections"
-- Calvin Coolidge Presidential Library & Museum
at the Forbes Library (Northampton, MA), Vermont Historical
Society (Montpelier, VT), Library of Congress, and
Calvin Coolidge Memorial Foundation (Plymouth, VT)
-- and regularly loans objects for exhibitions at
other presidential museums and libraries.
The Division employs about 25 local residents as
building interpreters and groundskeepers. In addition,
a volunteer corps assists with collections management,
trail maintenance, and caring for the period gardens.
The Vermont Division for Historic Preservation encourages
the discovery and appreciation of the state's rich
heritage through the stewardship and interpretation
of historic sites that evoke an authentic sense of
time and place. Plymouth Notch is significant to all
Vermonters and the American people, and the Division
is strongly committed to its preservation, protection,
and enhancement. Short and long term goals include:
expand the Visitor Center and improve its permanent
exhibition, reconstruct the Wilder Horse Barn (the
only major structure missing from the center of the
historic village), modernize the cheese factory operation
(recently purchased from John Coolidge) and design
an exhibit that will feature the original 1890s cheesemaking
equipment, develop an educational center in the one-room
schoolhouse, and establish a working farm.
With
each passing year, President Calvin Coolidge and his
era are within the living memory of fewer Americans.
One of Plymouth's greatest assets, however, is that
it is far more than a presidential birthplace. Although
visitor surveys indicate that the presidential association
still draws many of the 40,000 annual visitors to
Plymouth, an increasing number come to experience
what Vermont and the rest of the country "used
to be like."
One can almost imagine Cal Coolidge walking down
the village street. All of the buildings are in their
original locations and modern utility lines are buried
underground. When the evening mist settles into the
meadow below East Mountain, some are even inspired
to call the village "Vermont's Brigadoon."
Plymouth's survival is all the more remarkable given
that three major ski areas are only a few miles distant.
Although school and career took Calvin Coolidge
to Massachusetts and ultimately to Washington, D.C.,
he returned to Plymouth Notch throughout his life
to rejuvenate body and spirit. He is buried with seven
generations of Coolidges in the steep hillside cemetery
that is just a short walk from the village green.
Undoubtedly, the President was thinking of his boyhood
home when he delivered one of his most eloquent speeches:
"Vermont is a state I love.
I could not look upon the peaks of Ascutney,
Killington, Mansfield and Equinox
Without being moved in a way that no other scene could
move me.
It was here that I first saw the light of day;
Here I receive my bride;
Here my dead lie,
pillowed on the loving breast of our everlasting hills.
I love Vermont because of her hills and valleys,
Her scenery and invigorating climate,
but most of all because of her indomitable people.
They are a race of pioneers who have almost beggared
themselves
to serve others.
If the spirit of liberty should vanish in other parts
of the union
and support of our institutions should languish,
It could all be replenished from the generous store
held by the people
Of this brave little state of Vermont." (4)
The President Calvin Coolidge State Historic Site
is located 6 miles south of U.S. 4 on VT 100A, about
midway across the state. The site is open late May
- mid October (May 25 - Oct 20, 2002), daily, 9:30
a.m. - 5:00 p.m. For further information, write: PCCSHS,
Plymouth Notch Historic District, P.O. Box 247, Plymouth,
Vermont 05056. Telephone: (802) 672-3773 or visit
our web site: www.historicvermont.org
William W. Jenney
Regional Historic Site Administrator
Vermont Division for Historic Preservation
ENDNOTES:
(1)
The Vermont Division for Historic Preservation, part
of the Agency of Commerce and Community Development,
is commissioned to identify the state's historic and
archaeological resources and to manage and interpret
a statewide system of historic sites. These sites
include: President Chester A. Arthur Historic Site,
Bennington Battle Monument, Chimney Point Historic
Site, Old Constitution House, Mount Independence,
Hubbardton Battlefield, Senator Justin S. Morrill
Homestead, Forestdale Iron Works, Hyde Log Cabin,
Eureka Schoolhouse, William Czar Bradley Law Office,
Kent Tavern Museum, Burtch-Udall Homestead, several
historic bridges and underwater shipwrecks. The largest
of the state-owned historic sites is the President
Calvin Coolidge State Historic Site in Plymouth Notch.)
(2)
The historic site is bordered by Vermont State Forests,
State Parks, and land owned by the U.S. Forest Service.
This protects an additional several thousand acres
in Plymouth.
(3) Calvin Coolidge is the
only U.S. President born on Independence Day.
(4)
Calvin Coolidge delivered this speech in Bennington,
VT on September 21, 1928. He was touring Vermont by
train to see how the state had coped with the devastating
floods of the previous year. It was reported that
his comments were extemporaneous.
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